2025-08-11 – Traverse City, MI
We departed Petoskey on a dreary, rainy morning, headed for Traverse City. Our first stop along the way was Big Rock Beach. The beach is not particularly inviting but it is notable for a different reason. It had been the site of the Big Rock Point Nuclear Power Plant. Opened in 1972, it was the world’s first high-power density boiling water reactor. When it closed in 1997, it had the distinction of being the longest operating nuclear power plant in the U.S. The site was restored to a natural area after shutdown and there’s not a trace left to be seen.
The state of Michigan is known for its prodigious cherry production. To help celebrate the bicentennial and the town’s annual cherry festival, local businesses worked together with farmers to bake the World’s Largest Cherry Pie. They built a giant pie pan and an oven to match and produced a cherry pie weighing 17,420 pounds. It was a world record. The pie crust measured 14 feet, 4 inches in diameter and was 2 feet deep. The pie pan is now enshrined in a roadside display.
Our route took us through Charlevoix, which appeared to be a cool place but there was simply no place to park a camping rig. It’s a common problem for those traveling in a camper. After passing completely through town, we disconnected the car and returned with both vehicles, parked the camper in a small shopping center lot and toured the town by car.
First on our list to see were the Charlevoix Mushroom Houses. Huh? Back in 1919, self-taught builder Earl A. Young began fashioning twenty-six uniquely designed residential houses and three commercial buildings. With walls of local stone and boulders, and cedar-shake roofs, they had lines that bent and twisted like waves or growing tree branches. The structures seemed as if they could have sprung naturally, like mushrooms, thus the name. They are mostly located in one neighborhood and are easy to identify. We marveled at their appearance. The town is quite proud of their presence and it appears the owners diligently care for the them.
All these lakeside communities have harbors and most are protected by long jetties. These jetties, in turn, are marked by navigational light structures or small lighthouses. Charlevoix’s jetties have paved walking surfaces with iron railings, beckoning us to walk yet another pier to the red South Pierhead Light.
Arriving in Traverse City, we headed for our campground to the city’s east, the Holiday RV Park Campground. The campground was a low key, high end place set on an attractive lake. When first developed, it only allowed Airstream campers to stay there but, as it expanded, it opened up to other brands of campers. However, there is still a very high percentage of Airstream campers in its 219 sites. Our site was really nice with partial shade and steps up to our own two-tiered patio area that overlooked a beach on the lake.
We treated ourselves to dinner out at the Loco Boys Brewing Company where we consumed some delicious tacos.
2025-08-12 – Traverse City, MI
We awoke to a rainy morning so Bill worked on the blog.
Then, when the weather cleared, we toured some of Downtown Traverse City and took a walk on the Boardman Lake Loop Trail. The trail encircles the mile and a half long Boardman Lake in the center of town. The trail lead through a community sailing center which had a large and varied inventory of sailboats for rent. It then transitioned to Hull Park, an attractive city park along the lake with plenty of shaded benches where the public could relax on what turned out to be a beautiful afternoon and evening.
Returning to the campground, we relaxed for a while and then prepared a dinner of salmon, corn on the cob and sliced tomatoes. Delicious!
2025-08-13 – Traverse City, MI
The campground had no openings for this night, so we decided we’d stay in the local Cracker Barrel parking lot. Unfortunately, the lot was undergoing renovation construction and was reduced to about a third of its usual area. We then called the area’s Walmart only to learn that we couldn’t stay there as they didn’t own the lot.
Finally, we drove to Arbutus Lake State Forest Campground. The sites there are first-come-first-served and we found a very nice one that, although farther from town, would do nicely. It was certainly better than a Cracker Barrel or Walmart!
After setting up we headed for Grand Traverse Commons. Nominally, the place is a combination upscale shopping center, home to several large businesses and lots of apartment rentals. But that’s not why we went. It’s because the place is a rather monumental example of repurposing buildings.
The main building of the former Northern Michigan Asylum was completed in 1885. At a quarter of a mile long and 300,000 square feet, it was a huge place. It was designed to provide each patient room with a view of the outside and direct fresh air. And, it had a unique ventilation system that drew fresh air from the basement and discharged it through roof vents that looked like chimneys. Rare in its time, it had both central heating and electric lighting.
While retaining all the exterior features, the main building has been completely repurposed. The lower floor is now a massive collection of small retail spaces, The second is comprised of business offices and third is housing. There are lots of additional buildings that were used for more severe illness and as health care facilities. There’s still a lot of repurposing work to do.
The so-called “Hippie Tree Trail” is another “attraction” within the grounds of the asylum. A short trail takes you to a fallen sprawling old willow tree. Tradition has people spray paint it all the colors of the rainbow. Along with lots of other trees and tree roots, it makes quite a unique sight.
Ever the beach girl, Sandy walked Bryant Beach on the city harbor.
That evening we cooked burgers and had Brussels sprouts to accompany them.