2025-07-13 – Bayfield, WI
There is a second, smaller peninsula that extends into Lake Superior from the Upper Peninsula. The main town on that peninsula is Bayfield and they operate the city-owned Dalrymple Park and Campground. It’s a “claim an empty site and put cash in the envelope” kind of place. We found a nice site, settled in and headed into town.
Bayfield is a nice small town of 600 and it’s a very busy place. That’s at least partly because it is the gateway to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore with its famous sea caves. Twenty two islands make up the park. Only Madeline Island is populated with things like roads and businesses. It is served by a frequently running ferry that takes people and vehicles back and forth across the five miles of water to the town of La Pointe.
To see the other islands you can take your own boat or paddle your kayak, usually through a touring company. A third way to see them is by tour boat. We purchased tickets for the Grand Tour route, a three-hour trip on a high speed catamaran, for the following morning.
We decided to drive to one of the few places we could drive to on the shoreline near the islands. The road took us through the reservation of the Red Cliff Band of Lake Superior Chippewa, their Legendary Waters Resort & Casino and the Red Cliff Reservation Pow Wow Grounds. Although we didn’t have time to visit it, the reservation contains within it the Frog Bay Tribal National Park, the first tribal national park in the United States.
At the northern end of the peninsula we arrived at Little Sand Bay Visitor Center. The seasonal center is only five years old and features exhibits that showcase the history of Little Sand Bay and the experiences of making a life on the shores of Lake Superior. Among the exhibits are the buildings of the Hokenson Fishery, a prominent fishing business that operated here.
Adjacent to the Visitor Center is the Little Sand Bay Campground owned and operated by the Town of Russell. Included in the facility is a boat ramp and very nice harbor docking area, a picnic area and a nice sand swimming beach. It would be a good place to camp if you are carrying watercraft. The site is only a few miles from several of the Apostle Islands.
That evening we made beef fajhitas and salad.
2025-07-14 – Bayfield, WI
Our first act that morning was to change campsites. A site on the water was vacated and we filled it. Cool!
Then we headed into town to get in line to board our tour boat. Seating is first come first served and they have an interesting way to get in line. Fences line rows of seating where you can be comfortable while maintaining your place in line.
The narrated tour moved from island to island highlighting interesting facts about each one. For instance, Eagles are almost always seen on Hermit Island which also is home to a gull rookery. Named for a hermit who lived there during the late 1800s, evidence of a brownstone quarry are still evident from the water.
Stockton Island is known for its bear population. Our guide related the method used by naturalists to perform the bear census. They set up bait in small barbed wire enclosures. As the bears check out the bait, bits of their fur is left on the barbed wire. DNA analysis of the fur reveals the presence of individuals. The method is imperfect because not all the bears visit the sites but it beats first person interviews.
On Manitou an old fish camp has been restored and provided with a new dock. There is often a staff person at the site to provide tours.
Devils Island has a prominent lighthouse which is certainly an attraction. But the main feature is the large network of sandstone “sea caves” along its shores. While similar to some of the formations at Pictured Rocks, they are more intricate and are a popular kayaking destination.
Raspberry Island also has a lighthouse. This one was in sad repair so it received a major restoration beginning in 2002 to stabilize the shoreline and rehabilitate the property and to preserve its historical, architectural, and cultural significance. A dock below the lighthouse is available to boaters visiting the island.
The very popular Hoop’s Fish & Chips Dockside serves fish caught that very morning. They serve it fried or broiled in an outdoor venue and usually have live music. We just had to give it a try for dinner. The fish was delicious and the music was very good.
This area produces a lot of orchard fruit and berries. Strawberries were done and blueberries had not yet begun but a number of orchards produce hard cider from their apples. To celebrate that, we visited Hauser’s Superior View Farm & Apfelhaus Cidery. Because they are on a hill high over the lake, the Superior View part of their name makes sense. And you can take in that view from the third floor loft of their barn. The barn also serves as a gift shop … who’d of thunk?
But the cool part was that it was a Sears catalog barn, model “No. 2061”! Yes, they were sold just like the Sears houses you probably know about. The price quoted in 1928 for the standard 30 x 32 foot version of the structure was $895.00.
We also visited their newly constructed Apfelhaus Cidery where we shared a flight of ciders. The blueberry one didn’t much tickle our fancy but we both favored the apple pie flavored one.
2025-07-15 – Bayfield, WI
Bayfield’s Maritime Museum downtown is a free museum that features exhibits on the history and industry of the area and presents lots of interesting artifacts for guys like Bill to paw over.
Bill especially liked the St Ayles rowing skiff with its two sets of sweeps and the huge single-cylinder engine and propeller section of the wooden fishing tug, Josephine Addison.
It was a dreary, rainy day and a bowl of hot soup seemed appropriate for lunch. Morty’s Pub is pretty much renowned for good food and their soups hit the spot for both of us, cream of mushroom for Sandy and chili for Bill. Oh, yeah they served Bill a beer, too!