July 25, 2024 – Downeast South Thomaston, ME
The weather gods blessed us with fog and rain until mid afternoon. Our move this day was another big one, 40 minutes to Lobster Buoy Campsite in Thomaston, ME. If you’ve been following our movements carefully, you realize that our moves seem almost infinitesimal. There’s a reason for that and it’s because the shoreline consists of a series of long peninsulas. They are what make the area so interesting but there is a lot of driving up and down the peninsulas to explore. Each move positions us to explore a couple more of those peninsulas.
Among the attractions we visited in the town Thomaston, not to be confused with South Thomaston where we are camped, is the Maine State Prison Showroom. Five of the state prisons in Maine produce items saleable to the public through the Showroom or many other retailers around the state. The program is financially self sustaining and serves as part of their rehabilitation program. The Showroom offers many nicely crafted products, mainly of wood ranging from kids toys to case goods furniture items.
Driving around the town we noted that many of the homes are adorned with bold, sometimes outsized exterior trim. We wondered about the origins of the trim but found no easy explanation. Many of the houses were huge with additions that extended back into the large lots.
Dinner was a favorite of ours, chicken with caper cream sauce. We also had some fresh veggies so we made a sauté with fresh cut corn, zucchini and cherry tomatoes as an oversized side dish.
July 26, 2024 – Downeast South Thomaston, ME
Finally! A sunny, day with a high in the low 80s. We’d make it a busy day.
Owls Head lighthouse marks the west entrance of Penobscot Bay. Since it is located on an 80 foot tall bluff it didn’t need to be built too tall. In fact, since it is only 30 feet tall you’d only need to climb a ten step stairway and a seven step ladder to reach the light. That is if it was open for visitors. But, of course, it’s a nice walk from the parking lot and a lot of stairs to the base of the lighthouse. It is a lovely place.
On our way back to the parking area we detoured to a small, rocky beach and cove. We enjoyed the wildflowers along the way and the snug cove at the end.
Also on this tour was the town of Port Clyde. As with much of this area, it recently suffered a lot of damage, first from a large fire in 2023 followed shortly by the January storms. The General Store had to be completely rebuilt and the restaurant on the dock is currently operating out of a food truck.
Next on the list was Marshall Point Lighthouse & Museum. This unique lighthouse is positioned on a low rocky point with the keeper’s house just above on dry land. There is an elevated walkway connecting the lighthouse with the land. The January storm washed away the granite supports for the walkway. They’ve been repaired but the fresh construction is apparent because the granite blocks aren’t weathered. We toured the museum in the old keepers house. There were several docents in the place with lots to share about the area.
We passed popular Drift Inn Beach as we left Marshall Point Lighthouse. Photos show that it was once sandy but apparently the sand was washed away in the January storms leaving a pebble beach. Sigh.
We toured Tenants Harbor on our way to Spruce Head. Tenants Harbor seems to mainly cater to visitors, both short term and seasonal.
Spruce Head, situated on an island, has an economy based on lobster fishing. Our objective here was lunch at McLoon’s Lobster House. We opted for lobster rolls. McLoon’s didn’t believe in diluting their lobster. The sandwich contained only lobster meat. If you wanted mayo you simply added it yourself as a condiment.
Back at out campsite we retired to the beach to read in the shade.
Dinner was a chef salad crafted from a small one we bought at Hannaford’s and supplemented with our own additional meats and veggies.
July 27, 2024 – Downeast South Thomaston, ME
While in Port Clyde yesterday, we put our names on standby for a “puffin tour” to Eastern Egg Rock (EER) with Mohegan Boat Line today. Not knowing if there’d been any cancellations, we drove back to Port Clyde to find out. In fact, there were a couple of cancellations and we were “on”.
The tour was aboard the mail boat which carries supplies daily to Monhegan Island, about twelve miles offshore. After its daily run to Monhegan, we boarded it for the tour along with about 60 other people.
Soon after leaving the harbor the boat slowed down to pull a couple of lobster pots to demonstrate how the process works. The line has only a few non-commercial pots. The commercial fishermen are licensed to have up to 800 pots that they check every two to four days.
They found four lobsters in the pots. They demonstrated how they are measured and noted that the main shell, the carapace, must measure between 3¼ and 4 inches in length. Larger and small ones must be thrown back.
Along the way we passed between Allen Island & Benner Island, both until recently, owned by artist Andrew Wyeth and family.
As we made our way to ERR we saw a harbor seal and lots of seabirds. Our guide was very talented at spotting and identifying wildlife that came into view while keeping up a constant narration about the history of the many local islands that we passed by. Also, did a nice job of explaining the Puffin Project that celebrated 50 years last year.
The treeless, 7-acre ERR is designated the Allan D. Cruickshank Wildlife Sanctuary in honor of the man who originated the idea of creating the world’s first restored Atlantic Puffin colony. Today, its rocky granite shoreline provides a nesting habitat for puffins and guillemots. The interior habitat is home to nesting terns, laughing gulls and eiders. We saw lots of these birds as we slowly circled the island. Of course, we tourists focused mainly on the cute little puffins and we even managed a few blurry pictures.
During the field season, 4-5 people live and work on the island. A 12×12 cabin, “Egg Rock Hilton”, serves as their office, kitchen and dining area. There is also an outdoor solar shower and composting toilet. Power is supplied by a modest solar array. There are five small personal tent platforms.
On our return trip we even spotted several bald eagles on a couple of the islands. In all it was a perfect three-hour cruise. The weather was fantastic.